![]() It may not sound like it, but I'm actually a TJ fan. If you want a quick fix go with TJBC stacks and buy his jets for the setup and watch your gas mileage take a dive, but it should perform fine for a bar hopper. I already wrote a bunch of stuff on the subject so I'm not going to waste my time on repeating how I feel going about jetting the carb. If you actually take a look at how a much a fine screen cuts down the area of the carburetor intake you might suddenly realize that you can actually flow more air at wide open throttle going another route like the Mr Gasket filter, but prepare to do some carb tuning and yeah it might work better with a piece of plastic pipe (as long as you can stand it) with a radiused entry instead of the squared edge of the filter base. What they do is clean up the flow around the bare carburetor inlet and provide enough restriction with the screen to allow fairly normal function of the vacuum slide. TJ's stacks are an ingenious compromise that flow considerably better than a stock intake system with some loss of filtration. Probably what you really need for best all around performance is about a 6" velocity stack and a classic UNI clamp on filter to keep out the crap, but that combo might get in the way and will look ugly doing it. I think having the velocity stack straight up with the air flowing across the top of it may even give a negative ram air effect at higher speeds as opposed to a scoop opening that would do away with that issue & help pack the wind in.Doubt listening to a guy who sells screened "velocity stacks", TJ does a great selling job. On the track the biggest improvements from a setup working as ram air will show up most towards the end of the track, so any of these types of horsepower increases won't be offset by wheelspin. Air coming in from the middle of the grille or higher is much better than a low air intake on hot pavement. On the street a good sealed off setup can even help with hot weather detonation. Velocity stack type openings can cram more air pressure & volume into the same sized pipe intake, both with & without assistance from wind at higher speeds. Whether tubes or sealed compartments around the air filter, cold dense air will make a big difference. The radius of a carbed air filter base will make a difference due to turbulence. With natural aspirated this sort of setup can loose a bit. #1 velocity stack - no filter at all +5.7 hp - 750+īeside filter media type and overall size, turbulence and cold air intake are big factors to maximize any gains.įor a turbocharged setup with pressurized piping, a small carb or throttle body hat with sharp bends can be fine. #2 a salad bowl with a hole in the bottom w/ k&n filter lid +3 hp - 750+ hp #3 k&n velocity stack with filter +0.9 hp 750+ hp #5 flat base 14" dia x 4" h filter -1.2 hp good for 750+ hp #6 same as #8 but they taped off the open element thus breathing through ONLY the filtered lid -3.5 hp - good for 675 hp #7 solid lid on #8 - 6.6 hp good for 675 hp (again adding filter lid for some reason is more restrictive) ![]() flat base w/ k&n filter and filter lid -7.2 hp - good to 660 hp #9 B&B high flow drop base w/ k&n filers -8.9 hp good to 660 hp #10 flat base 14" dia x 3" h fram paper -10.1 hp good for 640 hp #11 dual snorkel - flipped lid - paper element -11.9 hp - good for 640 hp (for comparison, look at how tiny a Civic Sis air filter is. A decent-sized conical filter will do just fine. #12 15" drop base k&n filter w/ solid lid -12.7 hp - up to 660 hp (interesting this is better than the filter + filter lid) filter or a k&n filter with velocity stack. #13 15" drop base k&n w/ filter lid -18.8 hp - up to 650 hp #14 10" dia x 1 1/4" h open element -33.5 hp and good for around 350 hp #15 dual snorkel -53.1 hp - good for around 390 hp #16 triangular foam (flys eye?) -71.1 hp - good for about 350 hp #17 foam filtered velocity stack -72.4 hp - good for around 300 HP #18 single snorkel - 95.8 hp good for at most 300 hp #19 6" dia x 1 1/2" -145 hp open element good for at most 300 hp Unintuitively A filter top works better without the open element filter than it does with it size matters - the 14x4 was better than the 14x3Ĥ. Airflow down is always better than across the carbģ. A flat base is generally better than a drop baseĢ. No air cleaner - baseline: 752 hp 625.3 torqueġ. If you’ve ever wanted to know if a car’s high-performance air filter makes a difference, or if your small filter is killing horsepower, you’ve come to the right video! tested was a whopping 19 different combinations of filter sizes and styles, including paper elements, K&N filters, stock housings, dual snorkel housings, velocity stacks, filtered lids, and way more-all the way up to some shocking results with tableware! The test engine is a 750hp, 496ci big-block Chevy,
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